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baking

Choux Pastry (Pâte à Choux)

Choux pastry puffs because it contains eggs. A lot of them. The process starts with water, butter, and flour cooked together into a smooth paste called a panade, which is then beaten with eggs added one at a time until the dough reaches a consistency that falls from a spoon in a slow, reluctant V. Each egg must be fully incorporated before the next goes in. The eggs provide moisture, which converts to steam in a hot oven and forces the dough to puff before the exterior sets. They also provide protein and lecithin, which gives the shell enough structure to hold the puff once the steam escapes. A dough with too few eggs will not puff adequately; too many and it spreads flat. The oven door must not be opened during baking, as any drop in temperature collapses the structure before the shell has set. Choux is the base for profiteroles, éclairs, gougères, and churros. The egg is the reason any of those exist.

Prep: 15 min Cook: 30 min Total: 45 min Serves: 24

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

  2. Combine water, butter, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a full rolling boil, making sure the butter is completely melted.

  3. Remove from heat and add all the flour at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together in a smooth ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan.

  4. Return to medium heat and stir for 1 to 2 minutes to cook out some moisture. A thin film will form on the bottom of the pan. Transfer the dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a bowl and a wooden spoon).

  5. Add the eggs one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition. The dough will look broken and slippery at first, then come together. After all 4 eggs, the dough should be glossy and fall from the paddle in a thick V-shape.

  6. Pipe or spoon the dough onto the prepared baking sheets (tablespoon-sized mounds for profiteroles, 4-inch logs for éclairs). Leave 2 inches between each.

  7. Bake at 425°F for 10 minutes, then reduce to 350°F and bake for 18 to 20 minutes more, until deep golden and hollow-sounding when tapped. Do not open the oven during the first 20 minutes.

  8. Pierce each pastry with a small knife to release steam. Cool completely on a wire rack before filling.

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