Homemade Aioli
Aioli is a garlic-forward cold emulsion, and the egg yolk is what makes it a sauce rather than flavored oil. The yolk contains lecithin, a phospholipid that acts as a bridge between water and fat, allowing olive oil to be incorporated in tiny droplets that remain suspended throughout the mixture. The garlic is pounded or minced to a fine paste before combining with the yolk, a small amount of lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Oil is added very slowly, drop by drop, while whisking or blending continuously. Once the emulsion has stabilized, which becomes apparent when the mixture begins to thicken visibly, the oil can be added in a thin stream. The finished aioli should be thick enough to hold its shape, intensely garlicky, and slightly sharp from the lemon. If it breaks, which happens when oil is added too fast or the yolk is too cold, restart with a fresh yolk in a clean bowl and add the broken aioli slowly as if it were the oil.
Instructions
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Pound the garlic with a generous pinch of salt in a mortar until you have a smooth paste. (Alternatively, mince the garlic and mash it with the flat of a knife and salt on a cutting board until it becomes a paste.)
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Transfer the garlic paste to a medium bowl. Add the egg yolks and whisk until combined.
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Begin adding olive oil drop by drop, whisking constantly. This is not an exaggeration — the first 2 tablespoons must go in one drop at a time. If you rush, the emulsion will break.
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Once the mixture begins to thicken and look like mayonnaise, you can increase to a thin, steady stream. Continue whisking and adding oil until all of it is incorporated.
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Whisk in lemon juice and cold water. Taste and adjust salt.
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Cover and refrigerate. Aioli keeps for up to 4 days. The garlic flavor will intensify as it sits.
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