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Tamagoyaki (Japanese Rolled Omelette)

Tamagoyaki is cooked in layers. A seasoned egg mixture of dashi, mirin, and either soy sauce or sugar is poured into a lightly oiled rectangular tamagoyaki pan in a thin layer just enough to cover the bottom. When the surface is almost set, the layer is rolled from one end to the other using chopsticks and pushed to the far end of the pan. Another thin layer of egg is poured in, allowed to partially set, then rolled over the first roll and pushed back to the far end. This continues until all the egg mixture is used, building up a layered cylinder that is then pressed in bamboo mat while still warm to set its rectangular shape. The interior is custardy and lightly sweet; the layers separate slightly when cut. The technique requires a dedicated pan and some practice, but the motion becomes intuitive. Each layer must be partially set before rolling or it tears. The egg provides structure in the set layers and richness in the barely-cooked ones.

Prep: 5 min Cook: 10 min Total: 15 min Serves: 2

Instructions

  1. Whisk together eggs, dashi, mirin, soy sauce, and sugar until combined. Do not overbeat — you do not want foam.

  2. Heat a tamagoyaki pan (or a small nonstick skillet) over medium-low heat. Dip a folded paper towel in oil and lightly grease the pan.

  3. Pour a thin layer of egg mixture into the pan — just enough to coat the bottom. When the bottom is set but the top is still slightly wet, use chopsticks or a spatula to roll the egg from one end of the pan to the other.

  4. Push the rolled egg to the far end of the pan. Oil the empty surface again. Pour another thin layer of egg mixture, lifting the existing roll so the new egg runs underneath it.

  5. When the new layer is set, roll the existing log back over it. Repeat until all the egg mixture is used — you should get 4 to 5 layers.

  6. Transfer to a bamboo rolling mat or plastic wrap and gently shape into a tight rectangle. Let rest for 2 minutes, then slice into 1-inch pieces.

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