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desserts

Zabaglione

Zabaglione is made to order and served immediately. Egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala wine are whisked together in a heatproof bowl, then placed over barely simmering water and whisked continuously without stopping. The yolks begin to foam as the heat denatures their proteins and the whipping incorporates air. Over ten to fifteen minutes, the mixture triples in volume, turns pale yellow, and reaches a consistency that falls from the whisk in a thick, slow ribbon. This is the moment to serve it. The foam is a temporary structure held together by coagulated yolk proteins stretched around air bubbles. As the zabaglione cools, the proteins relax, the air escapes, and the foam collapses. There is no version that can be made ahead. The egg yolks are simultaneously the structure, the fat, the emulsifier, and the flavor base. The Marsala provides acid and sugar for balance. Serve in the bowl or vessel it was cooked in, still warm, with nothing accompanying it that requires time to prepare.

Prep: 5 min Cook: 8 min Total: 13 min Serves: 4

Instructions

  1. Set a large heatproof bowl over a pot of gently simmering water. The bottom of the bowl must not touch the water.

  2. Add the egg yolks and sugar to the bowl. Whisk vigorously until the mixture is pale and slightly thickened, about 1 minute.

  3. Add the Marsala in a steady stream, whisking constantly.

  4. Continue whisking over the heat for 6 to 8 minutes. The zabaglione will triple in volume, become thick and foamy, and hold soft mounds when dropped from the whisk. It should reach about 160°F.

  5. Remove from heat immediately. Spoon into glasses or bowls. Serve warm, either on its own or over fresh berries with an amaretti cookie on the side.

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